원정 개요

BC south of near junction of Lungsampa and Ngojumpa Glacier
C1 just north of rock spur's point 5695m
C2 northeast of point 6280m and northwest of point 6406m
C3 at bottom of rock chimney.

Very dangerous icefall above C1. Long route (5 hrs) from C1 to C2, then bergschrund at 6500m. Above C3 2 difficult chimneys and just below summit difficult climbing on bare rock. Route safe above icefall: no avalanche danger all route is steep (60 degrees to vertical).

One party attempted summit on 11th May but very cold strong wind and gave up 100m below summit (were Flematti and Royer). Next days not so cold and wind not so strong although some fog and light snowfall.

One Nepalese member Khatri, climbed to C2 once; otherwise 3 Nepali members stayed at BC and asked French why they climbed; had been ordered to go on expedition: did not volunteer.