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The Bali Four Makalu 2017

Makalu · 2017 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

Cole, Loeb and Tokarska began summit push on 9 May at 10 pm. Cole turned around at 7800m due to weakness and moderate AMS and Loeb turned around at 8200m due length of day and concerns about getting back down safely. Tokarska continued on to about 8460m with Dawa Chhiri and Pasang Gelje, then turned about about 9 am.

Fixed rope: approx. 3000m from C1 to C3.

Oxygen:
Used by members from 7300m to high pt to 7300m
Used by Sherpas from 7500m to high pt to 7500m.


Urszula Tokarska - 7 June 2017

Makalu is a beautiful mountain and it was a great experience but unfortunately there was much confusion about the summit. Up until summit attempt on May 10th the ropes were only fixed to camp 3 and once few teams decided to take advantage of the early weather window the ropes had to be fixed at the same time as climbers were attempting the summit. There was Altitude Junkies team and our team amongst few others. The ropes were fixed only to the fore summit and that’s where the Altitude Junkies team stopped, we got there at 8:35 am and I went little further but the very top was deemed impossible and as far as I know nobody reached it that day. Unfortunately there was also bad communication and confusion afterwards as people were posting summit news. I’ve attached couple of pictures from the fore summit.

  • 내부 원정 ID9428
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA17108
  • 대장Richard Morse
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8460m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유보급·장비 (8)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Richard Paul (Dick) MorseUSALeader---
Rodney William ColeUSAClimber-사용-
Jennifer Brook (Jen) LoebUSAClimber-사용-
Urszula Elzbieta TokarskaCanadaClimber-사용-
Dawa Chhiri (Dawa Tsiri) SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Lakpa Tenje (Lhakpa Tenzing) SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Lhakpa SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Pasang Gelji (Pasang Gelze) SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-

출처·참고문헌

http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/getDis/0/148 · 2017 · 웹사이트 (5) ·