원정 개요

Initial plan: Yalung Khang (new route) and traverse to Kangchenjunga, acclimatize on Kangch normal route. Go to Kangchenjnga C1, then go left, cross Japanese 1973 route and summit Yalung Kang West, go to Yalung Kang Main, then ridge to Kangchenjunga.

BC 14/04 5500m by heli
C1 24/04 6140m
C2 25/04 6250m
C3 02/05 6600m (lower than usual C3)
C4 09/05 7350m by Moro, Lunger (high point).

Team never got the possibility to start with their original plan up the Yalung Kang ridge. Moro had bad feelings about the route and they decided to acclimatize on the normal route and then see how they were going.

They did not use the first window of 16 May as there were too many people were on the route.

First summit push 22 May: they reached 7000m, but Moro felt sick and vomited. The weather was very good and it was very hot (about 37C) and they went back down to BC. On 23 May they rested at BC.

On 24 May, they went back up again for another summit push as weather forecast was good. They reached C3 on 24 May. On 25 May, they intended to go to C4 but at about 7100m Moro was feeling sick again and they descended to BC. They took their tents down on the descent. It was snowing and no visibility. They left BC on 27 May by helicopter.

During the whole climb, they had their initial idea of the traverse in mind.

Defrancesco reached about 5800m. He was never intending to climb.

According to Moro Kangchenjunga has one of the dirtiest basecamps he has ever seen.