원정 개요

BC 22/04 4700m
C1 01/05 5600m
C2 07/05 6400m
C3 22/05 7300m
C4 25/05 7800m (only on descent)
Smt 25/05 by Vivanco, Munoz Ubilla at 5:30 pm.

Vivanco, Munoz Ubilla started from C3 at 4:30 am on summit push. They had planned on starting earlier, but it was too windy and foggy. Conditions were unfavourable, a lot of rain/snow, cloudy, the monsoon was approaching. They stayed on the summit for a very short time, didn't take any pictures because of bad weather and no visibility. They descended to improvised C4 which was set up earlier by Japanese climbers at 7800m. They reached C4 at 10 pm. Next day on 26 May they descended from C4 to BC.

They were carrying a rope as they were not sure how much fixed rope there would be. According to them, they only found the way to the summit because of rope fixed by previous expeditions. Just two days before ropes were fixed through summit couloir. Without the fixed rope, they wouldn't have made it because no visibility. The trail was littered with garbage left by Indian teams, also marking the way to the summit.

Fixed rope: intermittent from BC to C1, from C2 to end of summit couloir.

Oxygen: not taken not used.