원정 개요

BC 20/04 4600m
C1 23/04 5700m
C2 14/05 6500m
C3 16/05 7300m
Smt 19/05 by Kazemi, Pennington, Lhakpa Tenji at 3:30 pm.

The team stayed at C3 for two nights as there were no fixed ropes. On 18 May they left C3 at 11 pm, following the fixing Sherpas. At 7800m the fixing group stopped and said they were finished. The leader of the rope fixing Sherpa told Kazemi that he had already been to the summit twice and that he was finished.

The team followed the Indian team (ITBP team), who dropped a 60m rope. Kazemi decided to take the rope, which they fixed at below the couloir at about 8050m. In the couloir they used the old fixed rope.

They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 9 pm (Kazemi) and 7 pm (Pennington).

When Kazemi arrived at C3, her tent had been moved (probably by Indian Air Force) and was broken. She and Hadi Sattar Fourugh (Iranian – other ON Return) spent a cold night in their broken tent.

On 20 May they descended to C2, where they spent the day and on 21 May to BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from 7600m to top to 7600m by Kazemi and Lhakpa Tenji
From 7000m to top to 7000m by Pennington.