원정 개요

BC 25/04 4750m
C1 03/05 5750m
C1.5 05/05 6200m (only on first rotation)
C2 13/05 6400m
C3 21/05 7450m
Smt 22/05 by Cotter at 5:15 am, Bradey, Staples, Smolokowska, Lopez, Adams, Fox,
Garrood, Doshi and all Sherpas listed below between 5:45 am and 6 am;
Chandesris at 7 am (without O2).

Summit team left C3 at 10 pm on 21 May. At about 11 pm, they found an Indian climber sitting on a rock at 7650m suffering from severe frostbite. They called down to their doctor Sara, who then went to the Indian team to tell them that there was a lost Indian up on the mountain.

Straightforward climb. They stayed on the summit for about one hour, and started their descent. At 9:30 am, they reached the Indian in distress again. He must have had HACE as he had taken off his clothes. Cotter injected some dexamethasone and together with Pemba, Tenji and Nima lowered him down to C3, which took them about 1-1/2 hours. Indian stayed with them for about 1 hour and then the Sherpas from the Indian team came and picked him up.

After a short break, everyone descended from C3 to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm, apart from Cotter and Fox, who arrived at 6:30 pm. Fox was suffering from a severe asthma attack. It did not get better and she was evacuated by heli to Kathmandu on 24 May. On 23 May all BC.

Ong, Leow and Grover reached 6500m. Ong was suffering from the effects of altitude. Leow was his friend and decided to abandon the expedition with him. Grover went home for personal reasons.

Additional info:

When the team arrived at C3, Santiago Quintero from Ecuador was sick and on his way down. Cotter gave him dexamethasone. When they reached C3, two Indians came through the camp. They had left on 19 May and were still up there on 21 May. The team gave them fluids and oxygen and shelter. Some Sherpas were coming up to collect them and they descended.

One of the Indian teams also lost a Sherpa. He went missing and was seen by the helicopter pilot below the traverse. He must have fallen off a substantial cliff.

5 oxygen bottles from C3 went missing on the expedition.

Doshi is the first Singaporean to climb Dhaulagiri I. Cotter, Staples and Bradey are the first New Zealanders.

Fixed rope: from C2 to C3.

Oxygen:
Not taken, not used by Pemba, Chandesris
Used from 7100m to top to C3 by members; C3 to top to C3 by Sherpas.

Summit Sherpas:
Pemba Sherpa (also goes by Prakash)
Tsering Namgyal Sherpa
Nima Sherpa, Solu (also climbed Dhaulagiri with AC in 2016)
Pasang Sherpa, Sankhuwasava (also climbed Dhaulagiri with AC in 2016)
Mingma Thindu Sherpa
[Phurba] Dorjee Sherpa
Chhiring Sherpa
Dawa Sherpa, Sankhuwasava
Da Pasang Sherpa
Dawa Tenji Sherpa