원정 개요

BC at 3800m Thula Khola's east moraine
C3 at 6100m start of snow rib
C4 at 7100m above big seracs, left of snow rib
C5 at 7500m col giving across to West Ridge
High point on West Ridge.

Very difficult route climbed: rock BC to C2, snow above to ridge. At C5 wind so strong picked up tent after poles broken and lifted collapsed tent off mountain. Took 2 weeks to get to BC cutting the jungle, making bridges, fixing rope for porters who gave lot of troubles. 1 week lost here might have spelled defeat in late Oct. Winds were not problem on face route but at ridge were very strong. Did have snow fall, block avalanche problems, rock avalanche cut fixed ropes and just missed climbers on exposed lower section of route several times, rock section not so difficult but snow section was sugar-snow and rib treacherously soft. Above C2 some days only 40-50m gained. Wind had smashed C5. No time left on 3 months air ticket.

Total 3000m rope fixed on route. All technical climbing finished but after C5 destroyed by wind, would have taken 10 days to remount summit bid.