원정 개요

BC 14/04 4050m
C1 16/04 5100m
C2 20/04 5700m
C2.5 08/05 6350m
C3 09/05 6780m
C4 10/05 7150m (C4 on German route; C4 on French route was too dangerous due
to serac fall)
Smt 11/05 by Zerain, Garcia at 9:30 am.

On summit push team left C4 at midnight (together with the two Chileans and two Italians). The day was clear. A lot of snow and they alternated breaking trail. They did not take the French couloir, but went directly up across the rocky section. Conditions were good. They spent about an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm.

On 12 May they descended in bad weather to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. The descent was pretty dangerous as there was a lot of snow and the avalanche danger was high.

Everybody down at BC on 13 May. Left BC on 15 May by helicopter.

Fixed rope: at start of the wall about 100m.