원정 개요

BC 14/04 4050m
C1 17/04 5100m
C2 18/04 5700m
C2.5 27/04 6080m
C3 09/05 6300m
C4 10/05 7150m (same camp as German route; C4 on the French route was too
dangerous due to serac fall)
Smt 11/05 by Mohr Prieta at 9:30 am, Rojas Schmidt 10 am.

The team tried to climb the "fingers" left of the French route. They climbed from 6300m to 6850m on 9 May. They were on their summit push. They started climbing at 9:30 am and climbed in perfect conditions on about 70 degrees of ice; the last pitch was on rock. They pitched the climb. They arrived at 6850m at 5 pm and then they crossed over to meet the Spanish (Alberto Zerain) and Italian team (Nives Meroi) at C4, where they arrived at 9 pm. The others had already been at C4.
On summit push they left C4 at midnight (together with the two Spaniards and two Italians). The day was clear. A lot of snow and they alternated at trail breaking. They did not take the French couloirs, but went directly across the rocky section. Conditions were good. They spent about an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm.

On 12 May they descended in bad weather to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. The descent was pretty dangerous as there was a lot of snow and the avalanche danger was high.

On 13 May everyone was at BC. Left BC 15 May by helicopter

The team was hit by an ice avalanche on 19 April at about 6050m. Did not fall but Juan Pablo's helmet was broken and they lost their rope and their rucksack.

Fixed rope: 250m from 6300m to 6000m on descent.