원정 개요

BC 07/03 4200m
C1 09/03 5100m
HPt 09/03 5100m by Morneva, Kernytsky, Mikhailenko.

Team went to C1 with the rope-fixing Sherpas. Conditions were good on this day. They tagged C1 and returned to BC. Then three days of bad weather. On 13 March the weather improved and the Sherpas went back up to C1. Just below C1 they encountered serac fall at noon and Lhakpa Nuru and Lhakpa Gelu fell for about 300 meters. Morneva was on her way to C1 (she was about half way, near the traverse) she got a radio call from Gyalgen (brother of Lhakpa Nuru) who told her that an avalanche struck. They were able to dig them out of the avalanche. Lhakpa Nuru had a broken arm; Lhakpa Gelu had a broken leg. The other four Sherpas dragged them down and came back to BC at about 5 pm. Morneva applied some first aid. As it was so late they could not get a helicopter.

On 14 March, the team discussed what to do and they decided to stay. On 16 April, Gyalgen, Lhakpa Tsering, Pasang Dorji and Ang Chiri (brother of Pasang Dorji) went back to C1 to collect the gear, but the conditions were very dangerous and the snow was too deep, so they decided to leave everything at C1.

Climb abandoned on 17 March due to dangerous conditions on the mountain and clients were not willing to go alpine-style.