원정 개요

BC 01/04 4050m
C1 10/04 5100m
C2 17/04 5700m
C2.5 08/05 6350m
C3 09/05 6780m
C4 10/05 7150m (same camp as German route; C4 on the French route was too
dangerous due to serac fall)
Smt 11/05 by Benet, Meroi at 9:30 am.

After the acclimatization rotation on 17 Apr, they tried several times to get back to C2, but were not successful due to bad weather and too much snow. On their summit push they did not want to ascent too quickly as they had not been acclimatized properly and set up another camp at 6350m.

On summit push they left C4 at midnight (together with the two Spaniards and two Chileans). The day was clear. A lot of snow and Romano did most of the trail breaking. Chhiring from the Chilean team had told them to take a snow couloirs on the right, but they went directly cross the rocky section. Conditions were good. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. The reason why they did not descend any further was that they were very tired and happy to have arrived at C4.

On 12 May, they started to descend, but due to the bad weather, they only reached C2 at 6 pm and continued to C1, where they reached at 8:30 pm. On 13 May to BC.

Fixed rope: 20m on serac between C2 and C2.

Oxygen: not taken, not used.