원정 개요

BC 04/01 5350m
C1 13/01 6050m
C2 15/01 6400m
C3 23/01 7100m
C4 04/02 7950m by Chhiji Nurbu, Phurba, Nuri, Pemba Thinduk
HPt 14/02 8000m by Chhiji Nurbu, Nuri, Chhepal, Pemba Thinduk, Txikon, Phurba.

Nima Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa were Icefall doctors and fixed the route through the icefall together with Txikon's team of Sherpas. Txikon and Rubio also helped with the work in the icefall. They used 65 ice screws, 60 to 80 ladders and more than 6000m of rope from BC to South Col.

Rubio reached C2 on 15 Jan. He was rescued by helicopter. He had attitude sickness. He spent two nights at hospital in Kathmandu and they found a problem with his lungs. He left Nepal on 20 Jan.

The first time the team reached C4 was to set up the camp there and look at the conditions. The snow conditions were great on the mountain and the weather was good all the way through the expedition; however, winds were high. When Chhiji Nurbu, Phurba, Nuri and Pemba Thinduk reached C4 on 4 Feb Rubio had already left the expedition and Txikon stopped at about 7700m to do some filming.

On 4 Feb, Txikon climbed from C2 to C4 [7700m?] and back to BC in 16 hours.

On 10 Feb, Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon started again from BC to C2, where they spent a rest day on 11 Feb.

On 12 Feb Nuri, Pemba Thinduk and Phurba climbed directly from BC to C2.

On 13 Feb Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon left for C3 while the others rested at C2.

On 14 Feb Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon started from C3 for the South Col at 4:15 am – it was too windy to start earlier. Pemba Thinduk, Nuri and Phurba started from C2 to reach C4. They left at midnight and met the others at the Yellow Band. The whole team reached the South Col at 3:30 pm. They descended after about 1-1/2 hours as it was simply too windy, about 70km/h. Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and Txikon descended to C3, Nuri, Phurba and Pemba Thinduk to C2. They were intending to summit on this rotation, but it was too windy and the weather forecast was too bad.

On 15 Feb, everyone back at BC and on 16 Feb the team, flew back to Kathmandu. They spent 10 nights there and Nuri and Txikon returned to BC on 2 March. The rest of the team decided that they were too tired (or injured) and did not want to carry on.

Pasang Norbu, Pemba Thinduk and Gyalzen of the Icefall doctors joined Nuri and Txikon for a final summit attempt.

On 7 March, the team reached C2. Pemba Thinduk, Pasang Norbu and Gyalzen left BC at 6 am. This was the day Reinhold Messner visited BC, so Nuri and Txikon stayed at BC to welcome Messner and only left at 1:30 pm to go to C2. They spent two nights at C2, but it was very windy and the forecast was bad, so on 9 March they decided to finish the expedition.

Even though Txikon had bought a permit for 65 days, the Nepal government decided that winter is finished on 4 March. They were told by the MoT to be back in Kathmandu no later than 8 March. They were lucky that Messner was there as he rang someone at the MoT and they allowed them to stay at BC until 16 March.

Fixed rope: 6000m from BC to S Col.

Oxygen:
Used from 7800m by all Sherpas to high point and to Yellow Band on 14 Feb
Txikon did not use oxygen.

Sherpas above BC (1st team):
Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu (with Eun-Sun Oh on Annapurna)
Nuri Sherpa, Goli-7, Solukhumbu
Chhepal Sherpa
Pemba Thinduk Sherpa
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (with Carlos Soria on Dhaulagiri and Annapurna)
Phurba Sherpa (with Carlos Soria on Annapurna)

Sherpas above BC (2nd team):
Nuri Sherpa, Goli-7, Solukhumbu
Dorchi (Halung Dorchi)
Gesman Tamang
Pasang Norbu
Temba Bhote

Injuries:
Frostbite on big toe by Chhiji Nurbu.

Avalanche accident on 15 Feb going down from C3 Chhiji Nurbu, Chhepal and
Txikon encountered a rock and snow avalanche coming down from the Lhotse Face.
Chhepal was hit on his head and was heli-vaced from BC on 16 Feb. He was
admitted to hospital in Kathmandu and received some stitches on his head.