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Annapurna 1986

Annapurna I · 1986 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

BC southwest of Tent Peak in Annapurna Sanctuary
C1 at glacier at bottom of normal route up Tent Peak
C2 on South Ridge of Fluted Peak
C3 at glacier below Fluted Peak North Face
Biv just below Rock Noir to East Ridge
High point at below Rock Noir's East Ridge.

From Tent Pk 5300m to Fluted Pk, fixed 2500m fixed rope for less experienced clients on expedition. Did not climb Tent Pk, but went up small peak between Tent and Fluted Pk and then scaled Fluted Pk and down its N Face 100m to glacier (200m rope fixed here) where made C3. C3 reached by 4 French and 4 Sherpas. Then Batard and 2 Sherpas went on to make route and if possible to climb Roc Noir, to put C4 on Roc Noir summit; but stopped by very bad snow conditions of sugar snow and turned back. 7th Nov tried to climb onto E Ridge, but here snow conditions stopped them very soon going west; turned east towards Glacier Dome to try to gain ridge but again too dangerous snow. Left BC 8th Nov.

  • 내부 원정 ID937
  • 원본 EXPIDANN186304
  • 대장Marc Batard
  • 루트 (Route)E Ridge (via Fluted Peak, Tarke Kang, Roc Noir)
  • 최고 도달고도7100m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 12명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Marc Marie Bernard BatardFranceLeader---
Bernard DouayFranceDeputy Leader---
Louis AudoubertFranceClimber---
Jean-Claude BoyerFranceClimber---
Thierry FaureFranceClimber---
Michel FrisqueBelgiumClimber---
Marc GratalonFranceClimber---
Bertrand KempfFranceClimber---
Roger LaotFranceClimber---
Michel WurmFranceExp Doctor---
Kami Rinji SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Kami Tenzi SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1986 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1986 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198725101/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-via-Khangsar-Kang-Roc-Noir-Attempt · 1986 · 웹사이트 (5) ·