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Korean Peak 41 Expedition 2016

Peak 41 · 2016 · 가을 (3) · S Korea

원정 개요

BC 10/10 4800m (same as 2014)
ABC 17/10 5027m
Biv1 18/10 5400m
Biv2 20/10 5577m
Biv3 22/10 5909m
Biv4 23/10 6244m
Biv5 26/10 6405m
Smt 27/10 by Yoo Hak-Jae and Koo Eun-Soo in the morning.

Members:
Koo Eun-Soo: (L)(S)
Choy Ji-Won: gave up due to altitude sickness
Han Dong-Ik: 6405m, abandonned on summit day 27 Oct at snow cave of North Peak
Yoo Hak-Jae: (S)

Schedule:
Oct 16: left the base camp
Oct 17: ABC(5027m)
Oct 18: bivouac 1 (5400m)
Oct 19: bivouac 1 (5400m)
Oct 20: bivouac 2 (5577m)
Oct 21: bivouac 2 (5577m)
Oct 22: bivouac 3 (5909m)
Oct 23: bivouac 4 (6244m)
Oct 24: bivouac 4 (6244m)
Oct 25: bivouac 4 (6244m)
Oct 26: bivouac 5 at North Peak (snow cave, 6405m)
Oct 27: reached main summit (6648m) in the morning

Summit is very sharp (the altitude differed 100m between two men due to the altimeters). On that day, trio retreated by helicopter from the snow cave at North Peak, not by their own asking, but by firm order of head of the team (not a climbing member), without any discussion in advance. He worried about snow avalanche on their route, and their returning date to Korea.

New line, “Korean route” is 1688m high (5.9/A1), lying right side of the North Face.

Team left BC on 27 Oct.

Oxygen: not taken not used

  • 내부 원정 ID9365
  • 원본 EXPIDPK4116301
  • 대장Koo Eun-Soo
  • 루트 (Route)N Face
  • 최고 도달고도6648m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Eun-Soo KooS KoreaLeader성공--
Ji-Won ChoiS KoreaClimber---
Dong-Ik HanS KoreaClimber---
Hak-Jae YooS KoreaClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

Peak 41, Northeast FaceGriffin, Linday · 2016 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215299Griffin, Lindsay · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·