원정 개요

BC at Messner BC
C1 at Messner C1.

Seracs at 7200m-7300m needed fixed rope on 25th Sept and down in bad weather. Now just Gabarrou and Pemba Norbu, a good climber who does not require lots of fixed rope. Again up 3rd Oct to C1, 4th towards C2 but having to leave loads, 5th to C2, 6th bad weather and stayed C2, 7th to biv, 8th reached ridge, see not possible to reach main summit on long ridge so go to peak without name and return to biv. 9th tried to go to main summit but very cold and very strong wind, so turned back and reached C2 at night. Would have died probably if had kept on climbing because of terrible winds.

Frequently falling seracs astonished Gabarrou at constant danger, but did not hit them.

Bouvard left early not because sick, but unwilling to accept this danger.