Swedish Manaslu Expedition 2016
Manaslu · 2016 · 가을 (3) · Sweden
원정 개요
BC 15/09 4800m
C1 17/09 5600m
C2 21/09 6400m
C3 28/09 6800m
C4 29/09 7450m
F-Smt 30/09 by Ahlqvist, Jit Bahadur at 9:30 am.
Team left C4 at 3 am. High winds during the start, but then calmed down. Big Chinese team was on route as well. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 1 Oct back to BC.
Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to top to C4 by Ahlqvist and Sherpa.
Sherpa:
Jit Bahadur (Thile), Khare-5, Dolakha, 30/07/1978
Note from Carina Ahlqvist, 31 Oct 2016:
Hello Billi,
Thank you for your message. I got to the end of the fixed rope. My sherpa told me this was the official spot for the summit. Another sherpa told me that I have to take a photo with me next to that yellowish rock to prove later that I had been to the summit. I didn't see anyone moving up to that other place which later on turned out to be the spot where I should have needed to go. It looked rather dangerous without rope. My sherpa wanted me to go down as soon as possible, not further up.
My concern is that the sherpa who was guiding me said that he has summited several times before and that each time this "foresummit" had been the place where he had gone. Reading that Russell Brice fixed the rope to the real summit 2008-2014 it doesnt make sense that my sherpa only went to the foresummit the previous times, claiming that he had been to the (real) summit. At least he should have informed me about that there is a false and true summit when we were standing there so that I could have taken a decision from facts about whether to proceed or not. Now he told me I was standing on the real summit. I am not trying to find scapegoats to blame others, and I myself should have known where the summit was. But out from the films and pictures I had seen on Youtube and alike before, it looked like a rather smaller spot with great views around and I thought, out from the situation with ropes ending there, that I had reached that spot. So I will not pay that sherpa any summit bonus.
I was believing that I was at the official summit until a few days ago. Even Russell Brice claimed that he had reached the summit on October 1st on FB. I also saw photos from the foresummits. So why should I believe that I had not reached the summit? You cannot believe how sad I am to hear that my effort will not be the first Swedish woman on the summit of Manaslu, as I was so close. I had thought of wriDng articles out of this. Now I can do nothing. Reading the blog by Mark Horrell, exposing myself in his blog as someone who is claiming to have been on the top although it was false, I think it is unfair. I was not trying to make up a story out of false facts. I thought I was standing on the summit and acted out from that. Kegarnee.
Now, you got the full story from my perspective.
Have you heard how the Department of tourim is reasoning?
Carina Ahlqvist
- 내부 원정 ID9319
- 원본 EXPIDMANA16316
- 대장Carina Ahlqvist
- 루트 (Route)NE Face
- 최고 도달고도8125m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유부봉 등정 (2)
참가자 2명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Carina Annette Ahlqvist | Sweden | Leader | - | 사용 | - |
| Jit Bahadur (Thile) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | 사용 | - |