원정 개요

BC at 4250m at Pungyen Glacier's moraine, southeast of mountain
ABC/C1 at 4900m at upper part of Pungyen Glacier at bottom of SE Face
C2 at 5700m on SE Face
C3 at 6550m on SE Face
C4 at 7200m above Col between Peak 29 and Manaslu
High point at 7400m SE Face.

Avalanches falling stones early proved new route planned too dangerous and went to Polish route. 25th Sept reached 6100m and 6200m daily and then very bad weather with 50cm to 1m snow late Sept and early mid-Oct frequently. 4th and 7th Oct reached same altitudes and C2 twice completely destroyed (no one hurt because C2 unoccupied). 8th Oct reached C3 site. Reached col between Peak 29 and Manaslu on 25th Oct after waiting for heavy snowfall 12-16 Oct to stop. Started up again 18th Oct in fine weather; biv at col 25th Oct and 27th Oct reached C4 site, waited 5 days here but winds so strong could reach only 200m more; down to C3 for rest up to col only on 1 Nov.

Most difficult part was below col and above C3. Had fixed rope from 6200m to col entire section plus more in places below 6200m (how many meters total don't know because avalanches destroyed ropes; used up all 5000m of rope, perhaps total 2500m of route were fixed).