원정 개요

BC below East Ridge (really on East Ridge southwest of Samagaon)
C1 on East Ridge
C2 at beginning of plateau (slope between Ridge and NE Face)
Biv at 7500m at small saddle on normal route.

Team had planned to send more summiters on 2nd May but weather turned bad with stormy snow 1-2 hrs after 1st team reached top on 1 May. All down to BC.

3 members went up to a bit higher than 7500m but windy and no shelter at 7600m on 10th May and back to C2. Now clouds moved in and on 11th fought way down to BC in heavy snowstorm. After that team had enough. One traverse of 150m was only difficult point; was at 6000m and ropes fixed there which made it easy. Also fixed section of 250m below C1 to make it easy climbing upper part of a steep couloir.

Calendar of Events - expedition report

25/3/88 Begin of approach march through the Buri Gandaki valley with
54 local porters.
03/4/88 Sama - basecamp with 24 porters from Sama village
06/4/88 Reconnoitre of route on the East Ridge up to 5500m. Putting
fixed ropes (250m) in the upper section of the big couloir
08/4/88 Establishing C1 at 5900m by Fuster, Levet, Spirig
09/4/88 Climbing on the East Ridge up to the begin of the steep
traverse clearing and fixing old ropes, which we found in place
(Fuster, Levet, Spirig)
10/4/88 Climbing the steep traverse through the South Face
Hangelquergang and fixing 150m of rope (Spirig, Levet).
13/4/88 Establishing C2 at 6800m by Fuster/Ott.
They turned back after the arrival of bad weather.
16/4/88 Establishing of gear and food deposit at 6500m. We had to
return due to bad weather (Levet, Spirig)
19/4/88 Attempt stopped in C1 by bad weather (Huber, Fuster, Ott).
After 1 day, they returned to BC.
22/4/88 Attempt stopped in C1 in heavy snowfall and bad weather (Levet,
Spirig). Returned to BC after 3 days.
16/4/88 Attempt stopped in C1 in bad weather (Wille, Stahel). Returned to
BC after 2 days.
28/4/88 C1 reached by Huber, Fuster, Ott and Wille, Stahel.
29/4/88 C2 reached by Huber, Fuster, Ott.
30/4/88 Climbed up to 7500m and biv there (no tent) by Huber, Fuster, Ott.
C1 reached by Levet, Spirig (Wille, Stahel still there).
01/5/88 Huber, Fuster and Ott started at 5 am and reached the summit of
8163m high Manaslu at 1:20 pm. Bad weather arrived very soon.
They had to descend in snowfall and fog. Late at night they
reached the deposited tent at 6500m, after a short visit of
the other group at C2. Ursula Huber is the first Swiss woman
to reach the summit of an 8000m peak!
01/5/88 C2 reached by Levet, Stahel, Spirig weather got bad in the
afternoon and snowfall started.
02/5/88 The whole team descended down to basecamp in bad weather and snowfall.
08/5/88 C1 reached by Levet, Spirig and Wille, Stahel.
09/5/88 Levet, Stahel and Spirig reached C2 in bad storm.
We decided to bring down the gear and to camp at a more protected
spot at 6500m.
10/5/88 After one night with strong winds and much snow blowing around,
we continued the ascend in still stormy conditions. In 7500m,
found the biv place of our friends. The site was storm beaten
and we couldn't find any protected spot or enough snow to dig
and snow cave. Eventually, after reaching 7600m, we decided to
turn back. Late at night we reached our last camp at 6500m.
11/5/88 Descending down to BC in heavy snowfall and poor visibility
(Levet, Stahel, Spirig).
13/5/88 Returned from BC with 10 porters from Sama village. After 9 days
Gorkha was reached.