원정 개요

Arrived in Kathmandu separately on 30 Sept and 1 Oct.
All left Kathmandu by bus on 3 Oct for Syabrubesi.

On 11 Oct established C1 without sleeping in it.

2 proper attempts on the SW Face from C1 at 5300m:

On 15 Oct had a short insight in the route up to 5800m (600m of climbing).

First attempt included all 3 members. On 21 Oct, started from C1, having a 20h climbing which led them to 6580m where they were stopped by strong winds (70km/h). Had hard ice pitches (12) up to WI4,5/TD+.

Second attempt on 30-31 Oct included Corona and Cazzanelli only because Favre had left base camp on 25 Oct (engaged with a trekking group from Italy as alpine guide). Stonefall hurt Cazzanelli's right arm (big deep cut) at 5:30 am at approximately 6000m, so they had to turn back down rappelling, reaching C1 quite fast. Cazzanelli was heli-rescued from that same camp at 9 am on 31 Oct, staying 1 week until 7 Nov in Kathmandu Norvic hospital.

Corona wishes to come back and try again next year.


Kimshung: Southwest Face Attempt (American Alpine Club)
by Giampaolo Corona and Rodolphe Popier

Standing to the east of Langtang Lirung, Kimshung (6781m) has no recorded ascent. On October 6, François Cazzanelli, Giampaolo Corona, and Emrik Favre arrived at Langtang Lirung base camp (4300m), on the west back of the glacier of the same name. On the 11th they placed a camp high on the right side of the glacier, at 5300m, below the southwest face of Kimshung, but did not sleep there. They returned on the 14th, spent the night, and on the 15th made a reconnaissance of their proposed line up the large couloir right of the summit fall line. They climbed the couloir for 600m before descending.

The three men made their first serious attempt on October 21. Leaving camp early, they climbed for 15 hours to reach an altitude of 6580m, a little short of the SSE Ridge, where they were stopped by winds in excess of 70 km/hour. To that point they had belayed 12 hard ice pitches at an overall grade of TD+ (AI4/5).

Favre, a guide, had commitments to accompany a trekking group and left on the 25th, but the remaining two returned to their high camp on October 30 and prepared for a second attempt. At 5:30 am on the 31st, at a height of 6000m, a stone hit Cazzanelli on the right arm, producing a large, deep cut. Corona helped his partner descend by rappel, and the two reached camp quite fast. At 9 am a helicopter rescued Cazzanelli and took him to hospital, where he stayed for the next seven days. He flew home on November 7, with Corona following a day later.