원정 개요

First [Official] Ascent of Khangchung Shar (UIAA) 6063m, Mahalangur Himal, Nepal

On November 6th at 11:30 am KTM time the team of Ben O'Connor Croft (UK), Joshua Jarrin (Ecuador), Masha Gordon (UK), Ang Phurba (Nepal) and Pasang Bhote (Nepal) made a first ascent of Khangchung Shar (6063m). The peak was on the list 104 new summits approved for climbing by the government of Nepal in 2014.

The route named "Laughing Gargoyle" - because of the large hanging ominous block on the summit - (550m, TD, III/IV) was approached from the Khangchung La pass that lies between the Khangchung and Cholo peaks. The team left base camp at 5200m at 1am and reached the summit at 11:30 am.

From the col the team followed the 40 degree snow slope towards a ramp. They headed left up steeper snow and ice, passing small rock steps heading towards the ridge. Arriving at shoulder of the ridge with a piton underneath a block to belay, they then climbed up the ridge until steepness pushed them back onto the face past a rock ramp choked with sugar snow with protection out left. Joining the dots between snow slopes to find rock protection in sometimes very chossey bands was the order of the day. Heading right along the ledge and avoiding a loose chimney above the belay, the team arrived to an airy traverse before turning onto a snow slope between the two summits.

Not too technical a climb, but with enough exposed sections and some careful rock "management" to make it a serious climb none the less.

Ben O'Connor Croft is an aspirant guide, Joshua Jarrin is an UIAGM guide and Masha Gordon is a founder of GRIT&ROCK.

This expedition was organised by Himalayan Guides Nepal Treks and Expedition Pvt. Ltd.

Iswari Paudel
Himalayan Guides Nepal