원정 개요

Thomas Schmidt - 12 Dec 2016

13/10. We arrived at base camp (north side of glacier). Robin, Indra and 1 porter made depot at Camp 1. I got medicine against diarrhea from German group.

14/10. Guenter was weak and decided to stay at BC. I was better and went with Robin, Gregor and porters up Camp 1. We placed 1 tent for Guenter there and continued without porters up to Camp 2, exactly a little bit behind (at 5900m) - a nice place with view to summit (see photo in Facebook).

15/10. We started after sunrise (about 10 o'clock) and arrived Camp 3 [site] about 11:30 (at 6100m). We saw the whole way to summit, which is a little bit down and then up to the ridge. Robin and Gregor decided not to continue because way seemed to be too long. Both of them waited for me, while I continued up the ridge (turning point was 6400m). I had to turn because I had wrong gloves (too small ones) with me and it became windy - too cold at my hands. We returned to our tent at Camp 2.

16.10. I started 4:30 am and climbed up to 9 o'clock until sunrise (sun rises directly behind summit). 9 o'clock I talked via walkie-talkie with Robin, who went down BC together with Gregor after breakfast. 12 o'clock I reached summit - suddenly saw Mt. Manaslu at the highest point. Again I talked via walkie-talkie with Robin and Robin talked with our staff. I spend nearly 1.5 hours on top, because this day was without wind - perfect weather. From 1:30 to 4:30 pm I climbed direct route down - needed only 3 hours because of the very good snow conditions. 5 o'clock I talked via walkie-talkie with BC, later I sent a message via satellite telephone.

17.10. I packed tent inside backback (see photo in Facebook) and climbed down to Camp 1. There I met Indra with 2 porters. Together we went down BC. At least I had a bath in the lake at 5350m; Robin and Gregor had also bath there 1 day before. After lunch at BC we continued down and arrived Phu in the afternoon.