원정 개요

BC at Dodi Khola southwest of mountain.

More bad weather after 13th Oct. All route difficult: fixed 7000m total rope - mostly rock and snow. 1st summit attack on 26th Oct and Furno and Nima made route to top starting from C5 at 4:00 am while 2nd group left C5 6:00 am (2 started ahead of other 2 because too cold for 2nd pair to wait while first pair put in route up difficult rock face). Second pair even so went up more slowly because very tired. 1st pair returned to C4 at 3:30 pm while Imoto at 9:50 pm to C5. 25th Oct 6 members slept in C5 (Okada at BC) but on 26th only 3 were well enough to go up while other 3 descended to C3.