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Korean-Way Gangapurna & Gangapurna West (Lachenal) Expedition 2016

Gangapurna · 2016 · 가을 (3) · S Korea

원정 개요

From https://allezandy.blogspot.com:

A Korean team of three climbers led by Kim Chang-Ho just opened a new route on the south wall of the Nepalese mountain Gangapurna (7455m), which is located in the central part of the Annapurna's range.

The team included Kim Chang-Ho, Choi Seok-Moon and Park Jeong-Yong.

The expedition started on September 12 with a trekking through the Annapurna's valley to the base camp, near the southern wall of the mountain, at 2900m. After the acclimatization period, the team launched its assault, climbing for 6 nights and 7 days. The route was climbed in lightweight alpine style, without sherpas and oxygen. The descent took another three days. The whole expedition lasted 22 days.


From AAJ (via Rodolphe Popier):

Used the same approach as for Gangapurna West, climbing to their first bivouac, then traversing east onto the upper glacier.

16 Oct: left BC with 8-10 kg sacs, two 7.5mm-60m ropes, six screws, three pickets,
one two-person tent, a short pad, a gas stove, and food. Slept at 5806m
bivouac
17 Oct: had second bivouac at 6000m afoot of the South Face.
18 Oct: climbed lower part of the South Face, having a miserable bivouac at 6800m.
19 Oct: "climbed the rock barrier above direct; nine pitches of mixed terrain with
thin ice over steep rock. Eventually, a narrow icefall led to a low-angle
slope". Bivouac in the middle of this slope at 7100m, without food, but hot
water.
20 Oct: reached the top.
21-22 Oct: descended in 2 days via the same 1500m wall, using natural gear, snow
bollards, and Abalakovs, leaving only two snow pickets on the mountain.

Route is called "Korean Way" (1500m/ED+).

  • 내부 원정 ID9271
  • 원본 EXPIDGANG16301
  • 대장Kim Chang-Ho
  • 루트 (Route)S Face
  • 최고 도달고도7455m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 3명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Chang-Ho KimS KoreaLeader성공--
Suk-Mun ChoiS KoreaClimber성공--
Jung-Yong ParkS KoreaClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

http://glacierhub.org/tag/chang-ho-kim/ · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://allezandy.blogspot.com/2016/10/mountaineering-new-route-on-gangapurna.html · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://everest.cocolog-nifty.com/gassan/2016/10/post-6a0f.html · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.emountain.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=13211 · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
'Korean Way' on Gangapurna and Gangapurna West, NepalKim, Chang-Ho · 2016 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAN
The Korean WayKim, Chang-Ho · 2016 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214165/Gangapurna-South-Face-Direct-Korean-Way-Gangapurna-West-South-Face-Almost-to-Summit · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·