Korean-Way Gangapurna & Gangapurna West (Lachenal) Expedition 2016
Gangapurna · 2016 · 가을 (3) · S Korea
원정 개요
From https://allezandy.blogspot.com:
A Korean team of three climbers led by Kim Chang-Ho just opened a new route on the south wall of the Nepalese mountain Gangapurna (7455m), which is located in the central part of the Annapurna's range.
The team included Kim Chang-Ho, Choi Seok-Moon and Park Jeong-Yong.
The expedition started on September 12 with a trekking through the Annapurna's valley to the base camp, near the southern wall of the mountain, at 2900m. After the acclimatization period, the team launched its assault, climbing for 6 nights and 7 days. The route was climbed in lightweight alpine style, without sherpas and oxygen. The descent took another three days. The whole expedition lasted 22 days.
From AAJ (via Rodolphe Popier):
Used the same approach as for Gangapurna West, climbing to their first bivouac, then traversing east onto the upper glacier.
16 Oct: left BC with 8-10 kg sacs, two 7.5mm-60m ropes, six screws, three pickets,
one two-person tent, a short pad, a gas stove, and food. Slept at 5806m
bivouac
17 Oct: had second bivouac at 6000m afoot of the South Face.
18 Oct: climbed lower part of the South Face, having a miserable bivouac at 6800m.
19 Oct: "climbed the rock barrier above direct; nine pitches of mixed terrain with
thin ice over steep rock. Eventually, a narrow icefall led to a low-angle
slope". Bivouac in the middle of this slope at 7100m, without food, but hot
water.
20 Oct: reached the top.
21-22 Oct: descended in 2 days via the same 1500m wall, using natural gear, snow
bollards, and Abalakovs, leaving only two snow pickets on the mountain.
Route is called "Korean Way" (1500m/ED+).
- 내부 원정 ID9271
- 원본 EXPIDGANG16301
- 대장Kim Chang-Ho
- 루트 (Route)S Face
- 최고 도달고도7455m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 3명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chang-Ho Kim | S Korea | Leader | 성공 | - | - |
| Suk-Mun Choi | S Korea | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Jung-Yong Park | S Korea | Climber | 성공 | - | - |