원정 개요

BC at bottom of NE Face, north of East Ridge
C1 at east end of East Ridge from north side
C2 on East Ridge
C3 on East Ridge
Biv very near old C3.

After BC established, every day rain so waited till 19th Sept for better weather. 20th Sept bived at 6400m and 21st made camp there but 22 Sept down for food. Then snowfall. Again up 27th but 28th down because snowing again. 2 times more tried this route (2nd and 7th Oct) but heavy snowfall and many avalanches. 20th Oct 3 climbers up same route with heavy deep snow but good weather, reached C2 21st. Oct 22nd to 7000m and deposit supplies, then down in cold winds. 23rd waited in C2 and a member cold to BC. 24th 2 members up to C3. 25th up very difficult rock (100m up only and back to C3). 26th little more up and 29th up in summit bid by 2 members but reached 7600m when turned back in wind and snow. Ascent too slow so down to C2 on 29th to traverse to normal route like Austrians. 30th on NE Face 7300m not possible to pitch tent so stayed night without tent and 31st to BC via ridge clearing all camps as they went.

5th Nov final summit bid 3 members [Kukuczka, Hajzer and Carsolio] from BC and biv 5500m. 6th Nov 40m very hard climb on ice. 9th Nov arrived plateau with wind cloud at 8000m. 10th Nov very cold and Carlo's fingers and toes very cold, stays at biv while 2 members went quickly to top and returned by normal route to BC where arrived 12 Nov.

Many avalanches, but no one hurt by them. Climbers started avalanches from C3 to 7600m very difficult and from 7600m 100m very difficult place rock with sugar snow.