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American Chukyima Go Expedition 2016

Chukyima Go · 2016 · 가을 (3) · USA

원정 개요

Climbed Yalung Ri North (5634m) by a new route on the North Face ("Wrong way Bud", 500m, 5.6, M4) on the 23rd of October. On the 28th of October reached north summit of Chugimago North (5945m) by a 500m high possible new route (M4, AI4, 75°).

New route on the West Face of Chugimago. On November the 1st, team left ABC at 3:30 am. Climbed all day with fun mixed pitches in the beginning, snow flutings in the middle, and difficulties up to M6 in the headwall. Reached the summit ridge at sunset. Bivouac on the ridge. On November the 2nd, team did last 4 pitches to the top reached early. Descent from that stage by one of the snow couloir further right in the face, abseiling and downclimbing it. Back to Na at 8 pm that day. Route is called "Mixed Emotions" (900m, M6 AI5 80°), starting by the crest of the buttress right of Mucic-Strazar Route, joining it in the middle section, then climbing to the left of it through the headwall.

  • 내부 원정 ID9269
  • 원본 EXPIDCHUG16301
  • 대장Mark Pugliese
  • 루트 (Route)W Face-N Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6258m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 2명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Mark James PuglieseUSALeader성공--
Nikolas Ryan MirhashemiUSAClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

http://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/first-summit-khang-karpo-excites-climbers/ · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://featheredfriends.com/blog/2016/12/05/ominous-expedition-rolwaling-himal-nepal/ · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17w/newswire-rolwaling-trip-three-ascents · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
Yalung Ri North; Chugimago North; ChugimagoPugliese, Mark · 2016 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 2016 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HCN
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214106/Yalung-Ri-North-possible-new-line-Chugimago-North-northwest-face-to-north-top-Chugimago-west-face-Mixed-Emotions · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·