원정 개요

1st BC at 4600m at bottom of West Face (usual site)
2nd BC at 5250m near lake at bottom of South Face (between the 2 South Ridges)
C1 at 6100m at snowhole 150m below shoulder of eastern South Ridge between seracs.

Each summiter climbed alone from shoulder snowhole since route on S Face fixed all the way to this shoulder with 860m rope. Face mostly snow and ice but rock also. Steepest was 65 degrees, average 55 degrees - UIAA 4+ to 5-. Difficulty on only 20m of rock, estimate of rock 3-4 UIAA. 250m total rock climbing on face, 250m ice climbing in upper part (into serac). Route on face led up a small ridge on left side of face (left of Jeff Lowe's route). Technically not so difficult and really didn't need fixed ropes, but Kovic and Benkovic felt.

Butkovic got pneumonia; Bago got frostbite and also bad digestive illness. Butkovic left BC 16 Oct with Berljaks. Berkovic left BC 19th. Other 4 left 20 Oct.


Berkovic - 24 Oct 86

1st BC at same site as Czechs for West Face (4400-4500m on South Face), so made a 2nd BC near lake just under South Face at about 5200m on 10 or 11 Oct.

Next day Bago and he fixed 450-500m rope; Alikalfic and Puzak fized 400m more to slope from ridge.

15 Oct midnight Puzak, Bago and Butkovic and he started from BC and 5 am Puzak, Bago and Butkovic went back down, but he kept on up with tent food stove 2 gas. He went up to end of fixed ropes, took last one because 80m steep section above, using rucksack as belay; did this twice; placed tent under seracs at ice hole 100m below shoulder at about 6100-6200m.

15th Alikalfic brought more rope to him and descended Berkovic he put in more fixed rope.

16th he started up 6:45 am and route now normal route to top. Arrived at top without any fixed rope at 11:30 am and returned to BC (2-1/2 hours from top to tent), arrived tent 3:00 pm. Left tent to moraine 1 hour only, down fixed ropes and arrive BC 6:30 pm 16th.

Leader and wife stayed at lower (1st) BC.