원정 개요

BC at 5300m on west side of SW ridge
(west of point 5545 on east side of Changri Shar Glacier)
C1 at 5950m at snow shelf
C2 at 6250m on top of snow shelf
High point at 6550m at SW Ridge.

Route went under glacier shelf on west side of SW Ridge to a west spur of SW Ridge. After established BC "crowded around acclimatizing." After made C1, ferried loads to stock it and put fixed line to snow rib at 20,000 ft. 15th-16th route made across SW Ridge. Next week put in more fixed line above C2 and spent next 9 days fixing rope on difficult rock and ice. By then too exhausted to continue on up to upper snow fields above snow ramp. Should have changed style of climb to fast alpine-style ascent instead of fixing rope up. 3000 feet total - had done all difficult rock climbing.

Brailsford never reached BC because of severe high alitude sickness. MacDonald got absessed tooth and was out of action for 2 weeks (had tooth pulled at Pheriche).


Swenson - 4 Nov

Roberts "flipped out" on the climb. Hadn't realized how big the Himalaya are: froze on them and had to be helped down the ropes on 26 and 27 Oct. This used up other members remaining strength.