원정 개요

BC at 4300m at west side of mountain near yak house 1 hour below
Deposit at 5200m at bottom of West Face
Biv 1 at 5700m on West Face (middle of face)
Biv 2 at 5950m on West Face (middle of face)
Biv 3 at 6300m on West Face at bottom of couloir.

11 days stayed in BC because bad weather. Went up to make deposit: started up 18th Oct and in 4 days made +4 carries to deposit while sleeping each night in BC. 24th Oct summit push began by all 4 members and 3 slept at deposit while leader returned to BC with altitude sickness. 25th 3 started for summit and reached 5700m and next day up again. 28th gas finished, impossible to melt snow and cook food (had been drinking only one litre/day) so despite all difficult climbing finished and only easy couloir to scale to summit, turned down because too dangerous to climb without liquids. Also were tired.

From 5700m were 500m very steep ice above 1st biv. Entire face is steep: could only sit in bivouac because no space to lie down although above biv 3 appeared less steep. Descended same route in 25 hours continous descent to BC.