원정 개요

BC at 5100m on east side of Kalapattar
Biv5 at 7000m right below summit on cornice.

1st to 3rd biv sites Scottish grade 5 steep ice. Spindrift avalanches all the time in this section funnelled down couloir and were very dangerous. Did climb true alpine-style except for 100m of 8m rope. Started off with bivy tent but it fell off after 1st biv so used snow caves or just platforms. Very pleased with climbing this difficult route both up and down and think it must be new ascent and descent routes (confusion about who has been exactly where on past expeditions).

Allan and Allen left BC 22 Oct. Other 2 members to make their own bid but not likely to repeat same route [retreated from 6000m due to high winds].