American Kangtega Expedition
Kangtega · 1986 · 가을 (3) · USA
원정 개요
BC at 5000m at base of SE glacier
ABC at 5730m
Biv at 5900m below 1st rock band
Biv at 6100m top 2nd band
Biv at 6300m base 4th band
Biv at 6500m at top of snow mushrooms
Biv at 6600m half way up long gully to summit plateau
Biv at 6700m at on plateau to south of summit.
Just above Hinku Nuptse Glacier was 100m wall where fixed one rope for descent. Total 4 rock bands of 2 pitches each most difficult section was final snow mushrooms. 4 men started up on 22 Oct from ABC and reached summit in 7-1/2 days. One got tired and didn't get all the way to top. Waited while other three did and then all 4 descended to BC same day. On top at 11:30 am and back in BC 6:00 pm having skirted icefall at eastern end of Kangtaiga Glacier.
Had permit for Kusum Kangru but E Face not attractive and were tired after Kangtega so made no attempt to climb it.
- 내부 원정 ID919
- 원본 EXPIDKTEG86301
- 대장Jay Smith
- 루트 (Route)NE Buttress up; SE Face down
- 최고 도달고도6783m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 5명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jordan Kramer (Jay) Smith | USA | Leader | 성공 | - | - |
| Joanne Bentley | Canada | BC Manager | - | - | - |
| Mark Bernard Hesse | USA | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Craig Reason | USA | Climber | - | - | - |
| Paul (Wally) Teare | Canada | Climber | 성공 | - | - |