원정 개요

BC at 4600m normal South Ridge BC site at Mingbo
Biv 1 at 5250m
Biv 2 at 6450m
Biv 3 at 6812m at summit
Biv 4 at 6150m on South Face.

No fixed camps above BC: alpine-style climb. After 22nd went to see best line on face and how to approach face; found Peter Hillary had best way and from his ABC [used] a little of his fixed rope. 2:00 am 10th Oct Smid started climb alone at 5250m and biv at 6450m at 4:00 pm. 11th in 3 hrs climb reached top 11:30 am in snowstorm (could see nothing) and spent night there for photos early next morning. 12th descended to S Ridge with only short rope and 2 pitons and no one else on ridge in "terrible" descent and biv at 6150m on S Face (70m below ridge on face). 13th snow and rock face to snow slopes of face to bottom of face where at 10:00 am reached Yugoslavian BC and to own BC same day.

Only Koch twisted ankle bouldering at BC and went home.

2 Swiss summiters together did slightly different climb: broken red line up and down to join Yugoslav S Face route (down Yugoslav fixed rope). Bivouacked at Smid's 1st Biv and then had their own 2nd biv at 6300m.