원정 개요

C4 20/05 7800m
HPt 21/05 8500m (point of dead body just below the summit) by Ito, Kondo,
Phurba Chhiri and Cheppa at 3 pm.

Team left C4 for the summit at 6 am. The fixed rope stopped at 8150m. Kondo took the lead. He found the ice axe of Ang Phurba (the Sherpa who fell to his death on 19 May) at 8250m, which came in handy as he needed two axes for his alpine-style climb. He took some of the old fixed rope and found some coiled up rope, tied it all together and produced a 50m long piece of rope, which he fixed (about 15 pitches) and lead the team to the high point that way.

On the way down he used the same system and everyone arm-rapped down. They descended to C4, where they arrived at about 6 pm, had a rest and Kondo and Ito descended to C2, where they arrived at 11 pm. Phura Chhiri and Cheppa stayed at C3. On 22 May they arrived at BC.