원정 개요

BC on west side of Lungsampa on Ngojumba Glaciers junction southeast of Dyazumpa
Biv on South Face
Biv on South Face
High point at 2nd bivouac.

Really 3 people climbing from beginning through out climb with some arriving at BC two weeks later than others. Problem of climb was the glacier and finding route across it through lot of snow and above it which of 2 icefalls could be surmounted (tried first western icefall, then climbed eastern one). Hence 18 days to make C2 after C1. From C2 26th Oct 5 members started up in alpine-style, but same day 2 members [Zabelata and Matous] retreated [from 6700m] while other three bivouacked at 6800m. Next day to 7100m and that night very strong winds (were hanging from ropes) so down. 27th 3 members to 6800m and 28th down. All in BC 29th and left BC 1st Nov. On face snow was in very good condition.

Planned to make a third bivouac at about 7300m atop difficult chimney on SW Pillar and go to summit from there.