한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Satori Adventures International Everest North Expedition 2016

Everest · 2016 · 봄 (1) · Australia

원정 개요

The Satori Adventures expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Satori Adventures provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Liam Slater (Australia)

Camps: BC(15/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(26/04,7000m),C2(17/05,7800m),
C3(18/05,8250m),xxx(19/05,8400m)
Left: 26/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8400m due to oxygen issues and fatique.

Slater and Dawa Dendi set out from C3 on 18 May at 11 pm (CST). The weather was good and calm. When they got to 8400m at 3:30 am Slater had problems with his oxygen. He had the feeling that he was quicker without the mask. As it was already late when they reached the high point, he decided to turn back. They descended all the way back to ABC, where they arrived at 4 pm.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from 7800m to high point to 7000m by Slater and Dawa Dendi.

Sherpa:
Dawa Dendi


Adam Rucinski (Poland)
Babij Arkadiusz (Poland)

Camps: BC(18/04,5150m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(10/05,7060m),C2(19/05,7650m),
C3(20/05,8250m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 26/05/2016
Hired: ?
Term: Success (7:30 am, CST)

Rucinski and Sherpas left C3 on 20 May at 10 pm (CST), summited on 21 May at 7:30 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C1.

Oxygen:
Used by Rucinski and Sherpas.


Miguel Madrid (Spain)

Camps: BC(18/04,5150m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7060m),C2(19/05,7800m),
C3(20/05,8250m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 26/05/2016
Hired: 2
Term: Success (7:30 am, CST)

Madrid, Mingma and Pema laft C3 on 20 May at 11:30 pm (CST), summited on 21 May at 7:30 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C1 in 11 hours.

First a little snow at 10 pm, after 11 pm started to clear the sky and the full moon appeared on the ridge at 8500m. It was very good until 7 on when it started to snow again, but I was in C1 coming back and safe.

Oxygen:
Madrid from 7400-7500m to top to C1 down; Sherpas from C2 to top to C2.

Sherpa:
Mingma, Everest X7, Cho Oyu, Xixa
Pema, Cho Oyu


Rosier Saraiva Filho (Brazil)

Camps: BC(18/04,5150m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7055m),C2(19/05,7650m),
C3(20/05,8250m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 27/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success (8:15 am, CST)

Saraiva and Lhakpa Chhiring laft C3 on 20 May at 12:00 am (CST), summited on 21 May at 8:15 am, stayed 15-20 minutes, then descended to C2 (others went down to C1). Next day to ABC.

Climbed with full moon; no wind, both in ascent and descent. A little wind just on the summit.

Oxygen:
From C1 to smt to 7300m by Saraiva; from C3 to smt to C3 by Sherpa.

Sherpa:
Lhakpa Chhiring (Sonam), Pangboche, Everest X8

Agency: Himalayan Ecstasy Treks on Satori Adventures permit.


Satoshi Tamura (Japan)

Name: Satoshi Tamura Everest 2016
Camps: BC(19/04,5200m),ABC(23/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),
C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 26/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success (7:15 am NST)

Tamura and Dawa Dendi set out from C3 on 20 May at 9 pm (NST), summited at 7:15 am, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C3 at 2 pm.

At the time of the attack from C3 at 8500m, my oxygen mask froze and it was hard to breath. It felt easier without the mask. I was lucky that it was sunny and it was not windy. When I looked at the oxygen bottle, the meter showed 1.5! How could that be? On my way climbing, I had asked my Sherpa to fix it at the maximum 3.5! I must say the climb was done almost without supplemental oxygen.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from 7500m to top to 7200m by Tamura.
Taken and used from 7650m to top to 7500m by Dawa Dendi.

Sherpa:
Dawa Dendi

Agency: Expedition Himalaya on Satori Adventures permit.


Neelima Pudota (India)
Agency: Adventure 14 Peaks on Satori Adventures permit

Tseveendash Bazarkhand (Mongolia)
Agency: Cultural Treks on Satori Adventures permit

  • 내부 원정 ID9143
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER16158
  • 대장Liam Slater
  • 루트 (Route)N Col-NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 15명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Liam John SlaterAustraliaLeader-사용-
Babij (Arthur) ArkadiuszPolandClimber---
Tseveendash BazarkhandMongoliaClimber성공사용-
Miguel Madrid LopezSpainClimber성공사용-
Neelima PudotaIndiaClimber-사용-
Adam Krzysztof RucinskiPolandClimber성공사용-
Rosier Alexandre Saraiva FilhoBrazilClimber성공사용-
Satoshi TamuraJapanClimber성공사용-
Gianfrancesco (Frans) TorreItalyClimber성공사용-
Dawa Dendi (Dawa Tendi) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pema SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Phunuru (Funuru) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

www.rosier.com.br · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://en.montsame.mn/sports/mongolian-mountaineer-makes-it-everest-again · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.satoriadventuresnepal.com/blog/satori-adventures-spring-2016-everest-expedition-north-was-a-huge-success/ · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.deccanchronicle.com/nation/in-other-news/250516/the-first-woman-from-the-newly-formed-andhra-pradesh-pudota-neelima-summits-everest.html · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.merinews.com/article/pudota-neelima-becomes-first-woman-from-andhra-pradesh-to-reach-mount-everest/15916495.shtml · 2016 · 웹사이트 (5) ·