Climbalaya Everest Expedition 2016
Everest · 2016 · 봄 (1) · Russia
원정 개요
The Climbalaya Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-3 climbers each). Climbalaya provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:
Felix Tan (Singapore)
Name: Puffin Sand Everest Expedition 2016
Camps: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),
C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 23/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success (9:50 am, CST)
Tan and Pema set out from C3 at 1 am (CST). On the ascent the weather was fine with light winds and light snowfall. Conditions good. Slight bottleneck at the 2nd and 3rd Steps. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On the way down weather changed. It got very windy on the way down. They descended to C1, where they arrived at about 00:25 on 21 Mau. On 22 May descended to ABC.
Oxygen:
From 7300m to top to C1 by Tan; from C2 to top to C2 by Pema.
Sherpa:
Pema
Yoshiyuki Tachibana (Japan)
Name: 2016 Yoshiyuki Tachibana Summit Try
Camps: BC(21/04,5000m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(02/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),
C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 22/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success (6:38 am, NST)
Summit team of Tachibana, Kami Rita and Pemba Tenzing set out from C3 on 19 May at 11:30 pm, summited on 20 May at 6:30 am, stayed 10 minutes, then descended to C3, where they rested for 2 hours and then continued to C1, where they arrived at 7 pm.
Conditions good, a bit windy. Many people on the way. Stuck behind Chinese group (more than 30 people). Waited at the 2nd Step for about 20 minutes.
Oxygen:
From C1 to summit to C1 by Tachibana; from C2 to summit to C2 by Sherpas.
Sherpa:
Kami Rita (Topke), Thami, 17/01/1970
Pemba Tenzing, Thamo, 23/08/1976
Emil Neszmelyi (Hungary)
Name: Emil Neszmelyi Sr. (b1919) Memorial Everest Expedition 2016
Camps: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(18/05,7000m),C2(19/05,7800m),
C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 24/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success (6:55 am, NST)
Summit team set out from C3 at 11 pm on 19 May. On the ascent the weather was fine with light winds and light snowfall. Conditions good. Slight bottleneck at the 2nd and 3rd Steps. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On the way down weather changed and got very windy on the way down. They descended to C1, where they arrived at about midnight.
Neszmelyi first Hungarian from the north side.
Oxygen:
Taken and used from 7200m to top to 7500m by Neszmelyi
From C2 to top to C1 by Dawa Tenzing.
Sherpa:
Dawa Tenzing, Thamo, 21/03/1986
Victor Bobok (Russia)
Irina Galay (Ukraine)
Pavel Kostrikin (Russia)
Name: Wind of Freedom Everest 2016
Camps: BC(21/04,5180m),ABC(25/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),
C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 22/05/2016
Hired: 2
Term: Success (6:00 am)
Summit team of Bobok, Galay, Pemba Tenzing and Pasang set out from C3 on 19 May at 9 pm, summited on 20 May at 6:00 am, stayeded 30 minutes, then descended to ABC arriving at 10 pm. Straightforward climb.
Kostrikin reached 7000m on 10 May. He had no energy and felt exhausted. On 11 May he descended to ABC and left the expedition a few days later.
Galay 1st Ukrainian woman to summit. 2nd Ukrainian woman summited one day later (21 May) with Alex Abramov.
Oyxgen:
Used from C1 to top to C1 by members; from C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.
Sherpas:
Pemba Tenzing Sherpa
Pasang [Sona] Sherpa
Balwant Singh (Bob) Bhania (UK)
Camps: BC(21/04,4900m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C1(17/05,7000m),C2(18/05,7800m),
C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 24/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success (7:00 am)
Summit team set out from C3 at 8 pm on 19 May. On the ascent the weather was fine and light wind, light snowfall. Conditions good. Slight bottleneck at the 2nd and 3rd Steps. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On the way down weather changed. It got very windy on the way down. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 21 May to ABC.
First Kenyan to the top (he has dual citizenship so not sure whether it counts).
Oyxgen:
Taken and used from C1 to top to C1 by Bhania; C3 to top to C3 by Nima Kancha
Fixed Rope:
All rope-fixing done by Chinese.
Sherpa:
Nima Kancha, Pare, Khumbu, 20/04/1977
- 내부 원정 ID9141
- 원본 EXPIDEVER16156
- 대장Victor Bobok
- 루트 (Route)N Col-NE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도8849m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 16명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Victor Bobok | Russia | Leader | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Balwant Singh (Bob) Bhania | UK/Kenya | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Marion Chaygneaud-Dupuy | France | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Irina Galay | Ukraine | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Pavel Kostrikin | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Emil Balazs Neszmelyi | Hungary | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Yoshiyuki Tachibana | Japan | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Yih Chong Felix Tan | Singapore | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Dawa Nuru (Da Nuru) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Dawa Tenzing Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Kami Rita (Topke) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Nima Kancha Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Pasang Sona Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Pema Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Pemba Tenjin Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Pemba Tenzing Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |