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Bavarian Dorje Lhakpa Expedition

Dorje Lhakpa · 1986 · 가을 (3) · W Germany

원정 개요

BC just east of south end of ridge running south from point 14,180 ft
C1 below West Ridge
C2 on West Ridge.

1st summit bid on 6th Nov from C2 failed because started late (at 8:00 am) and turned back at 6660m to C2. Next day Mayer started up at 6:30 am and Mueller at 7:00 am (Mueller tried from 6th Nov attempt and not sure whether he would go up again). Mayer on top at 2:30 pm and returned to C2 at 8:00 pm while Mueller moving very slowly got to top in 12 hrs (on top at 7:00 pm) and biv at 6660m with biv gear 8:30 pm. 8th Nov to C2 at 10:00 am and slept there while Mayer to BC same day.

Ridge safe and easy ice climbing in good ice conditions. Used no fixed rope (found many fixed ropes from Japanese) except on one steep section below C2 at Sherpas request.

Actual approach via Chautara, Tempathang and Balephi Khola to Panch Pokhari. South Ridge and South Face are possible route, but face had many icefalls and dangerous seracs.

  • 내부 원정 ID913
  • 원본 EXPIDDORJ86301
  • 대장Klaus Stark
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6966m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Klaus StarkW GermanyLeader---
Bernd Alexander MayerW GermanyExp Doctor성공--
Helmut MuellerW GermanyClimber성공--
Thomas OeserW GermanyClimber---
Mathias RauW GermanyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Oeser, Thomas · 1986 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198724401/Asia-Nepal-Dorje-Lhakpa · 1986 · 웹사이트 (5) ·