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BC between Dzsampa and Karyolung
Biv1 1 hour before Polish 1986 spring ABC
Biv2 at NW Ridge
High point at NW Ridge.

Before 19th Oct did acclimatization climb of point 6296m. Started up from BC at midnight 19/18 Oct and arrived at biv site of 6000m at 8:00 am (as on Everest Aug 1986, rested in day time when warmer and climbed during cold). At 4:00 pm 19th started up again and made new route on face WNW of summit. Not difficult snow face (last part a little rock). Climbed till 1:00 am on 20th Oct to 7200m. Very strong wind and had to stop. 7:00 am 20th also very strong wind so decided to descend to 1st biv site. 9:00 am Steiner fell to his death.

Steiner fell (was behind Loretan). Probably strong wind pushed him off. Was at 6900m and fell to 6300m but still alive. Loretan put him in sleeping bag, went to Dupre who went up with warm clothes, food, cooker, while Loretan to BC and sent sirdar to Namche for helicopter. No helicopter in 2 days so Loretan up with more food and few hours after arrival Steiner died 23 Oct evening many serious injuries.