원정 개요

BC 10/04 5350m
C1 20/04 6000m
C2 25/04 6650m
C3 04/05 7200m
C4 12/05 7900m
Smt 13/05 by Waterman and Tamding Sherpa (8:48 am); Hamilton, Scannell, Talbot,
Pem Chhiri, Ang Ringi, Chhimi Lhenduk Gurung (1st time), Nima Gyalgen
Sherpa at 9:45 am.

Summit team left C4 at 9:30 pm on 12 May at 10:30 pm. Straightforward climb. Winds picked up at about 7 am. The team waited just below the south summit for the winds to abate. Winds dropped and continued. Team spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 1 pm. Following day to C2 and on 15 May everyone down at BC.

Mitchell reached 7000m on 4 May. He felt he was unable to continue and turned back. He descended to C2 the same day.

Parks reached 6800m (Bergschrund on bottom of Lhotse Face) on 29 April. Before he had gone to C2 his medical researcher had taken a blood sample, which was abnormal and indicated danger of heart attack or stroke. Parks descended to BC on 1 May, had another blood test and as it was still abnormal he decided to abandon his attempt, which would have been without supplemental oxygen. He left the expedition on 4 May.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas.

Sherpas:
Pem Chhiri, Chanku-6, 18/02/80
Ang Ringi, Chankhu-6, 02/04/1991 (Pem Chhiri’s brother)
Tamtin (Thomting, Tamding), Beding, 19/12/1974
Nima Gyalzen, Beding, 09/08/85
Chhimi Lhenduk Gurung, Chhoser-8, Mustang, 24/05/1986