원정 개요

BC at 5300m at site of Swiss BC this season
Biv1 at Nangpa La.

Attempted E Ridge from Ngojumba Kang in September. Transferred to NW Ridge (normal route) in October.

After it became clear team could not succeed via E Ridge, liaison officer left BC 2 Oct to request permit for NW side (went to Namche to send radio request). No permit granted but Shiraishi and Hino left BC 5th Oct to make 2-man alpine-style climb from west. Moved up to 7200m in 4 days then stopped by bad weather for 2 days before going to summit. Found climb for most of route not technically difficult but were hampered by snow above ankles. Shiraishi gave up the attempt, but Hino reached top at 14:20 hrs, returned to 7200m at 17:55 hrs. 17th Oct bivouacked at 6750m, 18th at 5800m near Nangpa La, 19th at 5600m and 20th arrived at BC.

Expedition ask that ascent not be revealed in KTM, but are happy to have it reported in Iwa-to-Yuki.

Much heavy snowfall and distances between camps very long, so climbers tired. Put in total 1200m fixed rope from 5500m to about 6000m, 6100m to 6500m and 7200m to 7500m [on E Ridge route]. Asked for permit to change route to northwest side but not granted. 2 Oct liaison officer went to Namche Bazar to request change of route. Shiraishi and Hino went to northwest side, met Swiss at BC and made alpine-style ascent (no fixed camps). Left BC 5 Oct, arriveed Swiss BC 9 Oct, started ascent 10th Oct.

Shiraishi frostbitten fingers from climb via southwest, but will not lose any tips; no other problems.