원정 개요

Summit team left C3 on 23 May at 12:30 am (CST) and summited at 11 am (CST). Summiters were Bergvall, Fable, Landmann, Mortell, O'Brien, von Cramm, Pema Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Nawang Sherpa and Gyalje; Roeske and Lhakpa Sherpa at 12:30 pm without oxygen for Roeske. Straightforward climb. Many people on the route. Good and clear weather. Bit of waiting on the Steps. They spent about half an hour on the summit. Everyone apart from Bergvall descended to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. Bergvall descended all the way to C1, where he also arrived at about 6 pm.

The second summit team comprised of the PTSD group of Earls, Jukes, Ohlson, Ping Medvigy along with Chhewang Sherpa, Ang Gyalje and Ang Dorje left C3 on 23 May at 11 pm and summited on 24 May at 8 am (CST). They stayed 10 to 15 minutes.

On the ascent it was calm and light snow. It was cloudy. Ohlsen and Juke descended to C3, where they arrived 10 pm. Ping Medvigy and Earls descended to C3, where they picked up some stuff, and then continued to C2, where they remained for about 2 hours (it was a bad storm). They carried on to C1 and then to ABC, where they arrived at 8:30 pm.

Straightforward climb, apart from Ohlson, who was suffering from an upset stomach. On the way down the winds picked up and it got very cold. Ohlson was feeling weaker on the way down and Jukes oxygen was leaking. Jukes became quite hypoxic. They descended to C3, where they arrived after dark. On 25 May the two descended from C3 and they were fighting through jet stream winds. It was snowing wet snow and Jukes got very cold fingers. They descended to C1; it took them about 11 hours. On 26 May they descended to ABC.

Jukes got frostbite on both hands. He got very cold on his descent from C3 to ABC due to high winds. No amputation needed (grade 2). Mortell frostbite on both middle fingers (grade 1). Von Cramm frostbite on right hand (grade 3); possible amputation on two fingers. Nawang frostbite on both feet (grade 2).

Hales reached C1 on 9 May. He felt that he had a blood clot in his calf. O'Brien sent him to Shigatse to have it checked out and then on to Lhasa, where the doctors wrongly diagnosed him and said it was not a blood clot. He still went back to the UK on 21 May where the doctors found that he actually had a blood clot.

Oxygen:
Roeske did not use oxygen.
Used from C1 to top to C1/ABC by members.
Used from C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

PTSD (Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder) Awareness Team:
Ohlson, Ping Medvigy, Earls, Jukes

Sherpas:
Tenji, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga, 01/06/82
Pema [Rinje] Sherpa (Tenji's brother, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga)
Ang Pasang, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 15/06/1984
Gelze, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 13/09/1990
Nawang Nuri, Dhaurkarkha, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 15/05/1979
Lhakpa Gelu (Lhakpa Gelbu), Thumduk, Beni, Solukhumbu, 13/04/1977
Dorje (Ang Dorje), Patle-5, Okhaldhunga, 08/09/1985
Chhewang Karma, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 28/01/1989
Gyalzen/Gyalje, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 25/01/74