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Seven Summit Treks Manaslu Expedition 2015

Manaslu · 2015 · 가을 (3) · Netherlands

원정 개요

Seven Summit Treks Manaslu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Gilian Kit Wai Lee (Australia)

Camps: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(10/09,5768m),C2(16/09,6200m),C3(17/09,6800m),
C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
Left: 02/10/2015
Hired: 1
Term: Success (11:30 am)

Team left C4 at 1 am. Weather was clear; snow conditions good. Already on way up Lee noticed that he was getting frostbite but still carried on. They spent about 20 minutes on the summit. On way down Lee started to have hallucinations, which could have been the onset of cerebral edema. He was very dehydrated. He reached C4 at 4 pm and spent the night there. On 1 Oct Lee was still a bit confused and when he left C4 he passed out for about 5 minutes about 35m out of camp. When he woke up again he felt better and he and Ang Dawa carried on to BC, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 2 Oct Lee took a helicopter to Kathmandu.

Frostbite of 1st degree on right big toe and right thumb by Lee.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from 7600m to top to 7600m by Ang Dawa; Lee no 02

Sherpa:
Ang Dawa Sherpa, Kharikhola, 18/11/84


Boyan Petrov (Bulgaria)

Name: 1st Bulgarian on Manaslu
Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
Left: 03/10/2015
Hired: 0
Term: Success (11:30 am)

Petrov left C4 at 5 am. Weather and conditions good. As he was among the last ones to summit that day, he could spend about 1 hour on the summit. Petrov descended all the way to BC, where he arrived at 8:30 pm.

Oxygen:
Not taken, not used by Petrov.


Santiago Quintero (Ecuador)

Camps: BC(09/09,4700m),C1(14/09,5600m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
Left: 02/10/2015
Hired: 1
Term: Success (10:30 am)

Quintero and Mingma left C4 at 2:30 am. Good conditions. He stayed on the summit for about 10 minutes. He descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 1 Oct to BC.

Oxygen:
Not taken, not used by Quintero.
Used by Mingma from 8000m to top C4.

Sherpa:
Mingma Thindu, Makalu


Philippe Marty (France)

Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(17/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
Left: 03/10/2015
Hired: 1
Term: Success (10:00 am)

Marty and Ang Dawa left C4 at 2 am. Weather and conditions good. They spent about 5 minutes on summit and descended to C1, where they stayed the night. On 1 Oct to BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C1 by Marty
From C4 to top to C4 by Ang Dawa


Giampaolo Corona (Italy)

Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
Left: 03/10/2015
Hired: 0
Term: Success (11:30 am)

Corona left C4 at 5 am. Weather and conditions were good. As he was among the last ones to summit that day, he could spend about 1 hour on the summit. He descended to C4, where he spent the night. He was tired as he had carried his own gear (24kg).

Oxygen: not taken, not used


Arnold Coster (Netherlands)
Debasish Biswas (India)

Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(15/09,5600m),C2(28/09,6400m),C3(29/09,6800m),
C4(30/09,7400m),Smt(01/10)
Left: 03/10/2015
Hired: 1
Term: Success (5:15 am)

Coster and Pemba Thinduk left C4 at 1 am. They spent 5 minutes on summit. On the way down, they fixed some rope between C4 and top. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C4 by Coster; from C4 to top to C4 by Pemba

Sherpa:
Pemba Thinkuk, Makalu-9, 18/04,82

Coster summited along with Debasish Biswas, both using the same Sherpa.

From www.dreamwanderlust.com:

Debasish Biswas with Pemba Sherpa successfully summited Mt. Manaslu on 1st October, 2015 at 5:15 am (Nepal time). The expedition was conducted by "7Summit Treks" agency in September-October 2015.

Brief expedition report: On 7th September Mr. Debasish Biswas left Kolkata for Kathmandu. He reached Arughat village on the next day. Due to the earth quake of Nepal the route were totally destroyed. Hence he reached Samagaon by helicopter from Arughat on 9th September and reached base camp on the succeeding day. After two days rest at BC on 13th September he reached Camp I and returned back and rest for 2/3 days. Next few days he and Pemba Sherpa reached Camp I and Camp II for several times for acclimatization. Then they returned back to BC and waited for the good weather report. Initially they got the information that on 25th and 26th September the weather above 7000m will be clear. But in the next report the days shifted to couple of days. They reached Camp I and stayed there for next three days and Camp II for next two days after having another changes in weather report. They got the information that the 30th September and 1st and 2nd October will be the best weather window for climbing. They reached 29th September on Camp III and 30th September on Camp IV. On 30th night at 12:30 (Nepal time) they went for summit.

On 1st October at 5:15 (Nepal time) they reached the summit.

"We reached Camp I on 24th September. As per previous weather report of 25th September and 26th September we would get window to summit. But, weather at Manaslu was very fluctuating. Again we had to wait for couple of days because of bad weather. Ultimately we got report of another clear weather window from 30th September to 2nd October. So, we approached again for Camp III and Camp IV and finally summited Mt. Manaslu (8163m) on 1st October, 2015 at 5:15 am (Nepal time)." - said Mr. Biswas.

"It was tough. My right ankle have been twisted near Camp 2, we lost a fellow mountaineer of same summit team, another one was severly injured. He have been rescued" - he added.


Victor Rimac (Peru)

Camps: BC(10/09,4700m),C1(13/09,5600m),C2(14/09,6400m),C3(28/09,6800m),
C4(29/09,7400m),Smt(30/09)
Left: 03/10/2015
Hired: 0
Term: Success (10:30 am)

Rimac left C4 at 1:30 am. Weather was clear and calm. He spent about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 1 Oct BC.

Oxygen:
Not taken, not used by Rimac.


Additional Nepali Summiters:

The following are listed by the Ministry of Tourism as summiting on 1 Oct:

Karma Gyalje Sherpa, Maklalu-9, 04/09/83
Nima Sherpa, Makalu-5, 29/03/87
Lakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9, 27/11/86
Lakpa Sherpa, Makalu-9, 26/11/91
Ming Temba, Makalu-9, 28/04/1988
Mingma Gelbu Sherpa, Lelep-3, 16/05/89
Mingma Tenjen Sherpa, Makalu-4, 16/06/79
Pasang Norbu Sherpa, Makalu-9, 28/05/90
Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, Yaphu-9, 21/12/73
Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu-5, 14/02/83

  • 내부 원정 ID9083
  • 원본 EXPIDMANA15306
  • 대장Arnold Coster
  • 루트 (Route)NE Face
  • 최고 도달고도8163m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 22명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Arnold CosterNetherlandsLeader성공사용-
Debasish BiswasIndiaClimber성공사용-
Giampaolo CoronaItalyClimber성공--
Gilian Kit Wai LeeAustraliaClimber성공--
Philippe Jean MartyFranceClimber성공사용-
Boyan Petrov PetrovBulgariaClimber성공--
Santiago Quintero SylvaEcuadorClimber성공--
Victor Hugo Rimac TrejoPeruClimber성공--
Ang Dawa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Ang Dawa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Karma Gyalzen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lakpa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa/Lakpa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa Nurbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingtemba (Mikel) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma Gyabu (Mingma David) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma Tenjen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma Thinduk SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Nurbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Chhuti (Pemba Chhoti) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Thinduk SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

http://www.tribenitrek.com/blog-tribeni-trek/expedition-manaslu-2015.php · 2015 · 웹사이트 (5) ·