원정 개요

BC at 5100m at start of Chago Glacier
C1 east of point 6170m on snow plateau
C2 at 6200m just below NW Ridge southeast of col 6550m
C3 at 7060m on NE Ridge (S of "H" on Schneider map).

1st summit bid by 2 members on 6th Oct, but strong wind and snowfall turned them back at 7200m. 9th Oct 2nd party successful.

Route was same as Japanese 1976 (making C3 found 1 and half down in snow Japanese rope). Difficult knife ridge mixed rock and ice/snow below C3. From C3 to top mixed rock and used many rock pitons; ice pitons also; total 1800m fixed rope mostly C2 and above (200m C1 to C2) because they chose steep route.