원정 개요

BC 14/04 4700m (NE Face BC)
C1 17/04 5600m
C2 21/04 6200m
C3 09/05 7000m
Smt 10/05 by Hamor and Colibasanu at 1 pm.

Team left C3 at midnight. Deep snow, no tracks. They spent 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm.

Gabriz reached 7500m on 10 May. He had cramps in his fingers and turned back at about 5 am. He descended to C3, where he waited for Hamor and Colibasanu. On 11 May all BC.

As the team was intending to climb the North Ridge (Czech route), they descended to Samagaon to continue from there. Gabriz left expedition to go back to Kathmandu as he had slight frostbite on his nose. On 16 May Hamor and Colibasanu left Samagaon for Samdo, from where they wanted to attempt the North Ridge.

Low camp 17/05 4500m (in middle of Syancho glacier)
Base camp 18/05 4700m (at the base of the wall)
High Pt 19/05 5500m (between two seracs under a ledge)

On 17 May they left Samdo at 6 am. They walked toward Dharamasala and then turned left onto the Syancho glacier. They stopped at about 1 pm to set up their camp. On 18 May they moved up the glacier for another six hours and set up their BC at 4700m.

On 19 May they left BC at 5 am. They scrambled over big boulders to a ridge and climbed around the first serac (5000m), which was quite dangerous due to rock and icefall. In order to reach the second serac they had to come down again on the other side of the first serac. Once they reached the second serac they could see the route and once they had analyzed the avalanche danger, they decided to abandon the expedition. At about noon the climbed back down and reached Samdo the same day at 7 pm.