원정 개요

Seven Summit Treks Makalu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Ferran Latorre (Spain)

Camps: BC(20/04,5100m),ABC(27/04,6400m),C2(05/05,6600m),C3(21/05,7500m),Smt(23/05)
Left: 26/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success (12:30 pm)

Latorre started his summit push from C3 on 22 May at 8:30 pm. The rope was not fixed from the bottom of the French Couloir. He opened the route from the false summit to the real summit. Lot of snow on the route, the weather was good. Clear day.

Spent 10 minutes on the summit with Wenzl, Vajpai and Petrov, then descended to C3 arriving at 7 pm (nearly 23 hours round trip).


Martina Bauer (Austria)(Ldr)
Reinhard Auzinger (Austria)
Christoph Koenig (Austria)
Johann Wenzl (Austria)

Name: Austrian Makalu Expedition 2016
Camps: BC(19/04,4800m),ABC(24/04,5700m),C2(30/04,6600m),C3(22/05,7500m),Smt(23/05)
Left: 26/05/2016
Hired: 2
Term: Success (12:24 pm)

On 22 May, Wenzl, Auzinger and Dawa with Latorre set out from C3 at 8 pm; Bauer left at 5:30 pm together with Phurba Sherpa. Weather was snowing, later clear and less wind, snow conditions are good.

Latorre fixed some rope and opened the route on the last traverse from the false summit to the real summit. Team spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 pm.

Auzinger reached C4 site at 7700m. He was not feeling well and turned back and descended to C3, where he spent the night.

Bauer reached 8080m on 23 May. She started having breathing problems. Phurba gave her some oxygen and she descended to C3, where she arrived at 11 am. She stayed there to wait for the return of Wenzl and Latorre. She does not think it was altitude-related, but more of an asthmatic attack.

Koenig reached 7000m on 12 May. He abandoned the climb as he never really intended to reach the summit. He left BC on 15 May.

Oxygen:
Not taken, not used by Latorre and Wenzl.
Taken and used (medically) from 8080m to C3 by Bauer.
Used by Dawa from C4 to top to C4.

Sherpas:
Dawa Sherpa (1st 8000er)
Phurba Sherpa


Francesca Raffaelli (Italy)
Mario Andrighettoni (Italy)

Term: Did climb due to previous shoulder injury to Raffaelli
(did not depart from Ktmdu)


Lech Flaczynski (Poland)
Wojciech Bartlomiej Flaczynski (Poland)

Name: Polish Makalu Family Expedition 2016
Camps: BC(20/04,4850m),ABC(24/04,5650m),C1(27/04,6150m),C2(01/05,6550m),
C3(10/05,7400m),C4(19/05,7600m),xxx(20/05,7900m)
Left: 29/05/2016
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7900m (foot of French Couloir) due to lateness in the day.

Lech Flaczynski:
We were the first ones to leave ABC after a few days of bad weather. On our way to C4 we did not find the way and we found a new way through the rocks. We did not find the fixed ropes on the steep part of the climb. We did not have downsuits and no foot or handwarmers. We were a bit scared to go to the summit in the middle of the night. On summit day the weather was very good and it was very hot above C4, which slowed us down significantly. When we were near the glacier, we found the fixed ropes. They were partially covered in ice. It was very exhausting to dig them out and we climbed long distances without using the fixed rope. The sun set after 6 pm and it got very cold, dark clouds gathered and the wind increased significantly. Lech was leading most of the time. He was using 1.5l of oxygen. Wojtek followed without using supplemental oxygen. When he caught up with Lech, they decided to turn back. We were worried to get frostbite. We returned to C4, where we spent the night without sleeping bags. The following day we descended to C3, the next day to C2 and on the third day to ABC.

When we reached ABC after our summit attempt we were told that the expedition was over and that we should go to Num. However, our equipment was still at C2 and C3. After having had some food, Wojtek went back up to the Makalu La and I wanted to go to C2 on the following day to dismantle the tents. We then wanted to go back to ABC together. Wojtek reached C2, where he spent the night and climbed towards the Makalu La the following day. The weather was very bad and they were some small avalanches coming down on the rocks. The wind reached about 100 km/h on the Makalu La. It was a horrible night without sleeping bag. The following day, Wojtek rappelled down, however, on the snow slopes below the upper rock band he had to stop due to pulmonary edema. Lech climbed up from C2 to meet him, brought him down to C2, where they had drugs for pulmonary edema. The following day they reached ABC and continued to Yangle Kharka, where they met the other members of the Seven Summit Treks expedition. Two days of rain in Yangla Kharka and on the third day a helicopter collected Wojtek and other climbers from Seven Summit Treks and brought them to Kathmandu. Wojtek spent two days in hospital even though he had already felt better at Yangle Kharkafelt better at Yangla Kharka.


Jean-Luc Fohal (France)

Name: Belgium Makalu Expedition 2016
Camps: BC(19/04,4800m),ABC(23/04,5650m),C1(25/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6600m),
C3(21/05,7450m),C4(22/05,7650m),xxx(23/05,8350m)
Left: 25/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8350m due to exhaustion from not using oxygen

During the ascent, Fohal could not use oxygen because he could not stand to have a mask over his mouth. Completely tired and dehydrated, he decided to go down to save his own life. He saw that the true summit was close, but it was better for him to take this decision.

The weather had a little bit of snow at the beginning, but afterwards dry and sunny. Arrival of the clouds came in the descent in midday.

Fixed rope: Seven Summit Sherpas fixed the entire mountain.

Oxygen:
Fohal did not use oxygen.
Others members did use it.
Pasang [Gyalje?] from C4 to high point to C4.


Boyan Petrov (Bulgaria)

Name: Bulgarian on Makalu 2016
Camps: ABC(07/05,5700m),C2(09/05,6600m),C3(10/05,7400m),Smt(23/05)
Left: 25/05/2016
Hired: 0
Term: Success (12:10 pm)

Petrov was on the summit together with Ferran Latorre, Arjun Vajpai, Atanas Skatov and Hans Wenzl, who were also climbing with Seven Summit Treks.

Petrov started his summit bid on 23 May at 3:30 am, arrived at the summit at 12:10 pm, stayed 20 minutes, then descended to C3 arriving at 4:30 pm.

Petrov came to Makalu from Annapurna I.

Oxygen not used.

Petrov reports:

I started from C3 at 2:30 am in the morning. At 4 am I was in C4, rested for 20 min and then reached the bottom of the French Coluior at about 8 am. There were 25-26 people in the couloir and I rested for 40 min eating and drinking. After I started to climb fast and passed over about 20 members and Sherpas.

I continued towards the False Summit together with Ferran, Arjun, Hans and Atanas. In 12:10 we all reached the true summit. I made some pictures of Ferran, Arjun and Hans (which they later published on Facebook and their websites).

I descended as fast as possible and reached C3 at 16:30 pm. On 24 May, I descended to BC and reached at 11:30 am.

Report for the climb I published here:

http://www.dnevnik.bg/sport/2016/05/26/2766106_razkaz_ot_purvo_lice_kak_boian_petrov_izkachi_vruh/


Arjun Vajpai (India)

Name: Indian Makalu Expedition 2016
Camps: BC(22/04,4800m),ABC(25/04,5700m),C2(30/04,6600m),C3(21/05,7500m),
C4(22/05,7700m),Smt(23/05)
Left: 26/05/2016
Hired: 2
Term: Success (12:24 pm)

Summit team started from C4 at 9 pm. Pasang Norbu fixed the route from the bottom of the French Couloir to the summit ridge. Vajpai was climbing with Latorre and Wenzl. Vajpai spent 10 minutes on the summit, descended to C4, where he arrived at about 4 pm. On 24 May he descended to ABC.

Fixed rope: 350m by Pasang Norbu

Oxygen:
From C2 to top to C2 by Vajpai
From C4 to top to C4 by Pasang Norbu

Sherpa;
Pasang Norbu, Makalu Barun, about 22 years old


Atanas Skatov (Bulgaria)
Camps: ABC(18/05,5700m),C2(20/05,6600m),C3(21/05,7450m),C4(22/05,7650m),
Smt(23/05)
Term: Success


Jesus Morales Manzanares (Spain)

Camps: ABC(24/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6500m),C2(02/05,7200m),xxx(03/05,7300m)
Left: 07/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 7300m due to altitude sickness (palpitations)

Sherpa:
Lhakpa Nuru


Cleo Weidlich (USA) (No summit)
Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Pakistan) (No summit)

During the first summit window, several strong climbers like Ali Sadpara, who is guiding Cleo Weidlich on the mountain, and Boyan Petrov were turned down 150m below the top on May 11 (due to bad weather).


Hideki Nakayama (Japan) (Summiter as listed by Ministry)
Keisuke Kitamura (Japan) (Summiter as listed by Ministry)

Presume Phurtemba and Lhakpa Dendi were with the Japanese.


David (Stuss) Leeds (USA) (Summiter as listed by Ministry)

Camps: BC(20/04),ABC(24/04,5700m),C1,C2,C3,Smt(23/05)
Left: 30/05/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success
Sherpa:
Lhakpa [Dendi?]


He Ya-Ping (China) (No summit)
Fan Xiao-Yan (China) (No summit)