원정 개요

BC 15/04 4670m
C1 26/04 5720m
C2 06/05 6600m
C3 14/05 7250m
Smt 19/05 by Joshi, Dorchi and Tenzing at 11:15 am.

First attempt: On 15 May the team (Patke, Joshi and Mane with Dorchi, Tenzing and Phu Dorje) climbed up to the traverse at 7900m. Due to bad weather they abandoned their summit attempt and returned to C3. On 16 May they descended to C2 and on 17 May Patke and Joshi climbed back up to C3 (Mane did not feel well and descended to BC).

Second attempt: On 17 May Patke, Joshi, Dorchi and Tenzing Sherpa started their summit push at 6 pm, but it was too windy. They turned around at 7:30 pm and returned to C3.

Third attempt: On 18 May Patke descended to BC and Joshi, Dorchi and Tenzing Sherpa started their summit push at 9:30 pm. Weather was good, winds about 30/kmh. Dorchi Sherpa had to dig out the rope, which was fixed during the first summit attempt. They spent about 25 minutes on the summit as the wind had picked up. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 8 pm. On 20 May everyone back at BC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

Patke reached 7900m. He abandoned climb as there was not enough oxygen for two members to summit.

Mane reached 7900m during the first summit attempt. He did not join the second summit attempt as he had a bad cough.

Hadole reached 6600m on on 13 May during first summit attempt. He had a serious stomachache.

Sherpas:
Dorchi Sherpa, Walung, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 01/12/1979
Ming Temba Sherpa
Phu Dorje Sherpa
Tenzing Sherpa, 1st 8000er

Oxygen:
From C2 to top to C2 by Joshi; from C3 to top to C3 by Dorchi and Tenzing.
From C2 to high point to C2 by all other members.


Umesh Zirpe was the official leader of both the Cho Oyu and Dhaulagiri expeditions, but he went to Cho Oyu and was not on the Dhaulagiri permit.