원정 개요

BC 18/04 4670m
C1 22/04 5900m
C2 23/04 6550m
C3 17/05 7250m
Smt 19/05 at 6:30 am by Zerain and Mariano Galvan (from different agency).

Zerain and Galvan left C3 at 12:30 am.

On summit push, Danny Gordin from Israel, Rajib Bhattacharya (the Indian, who died), and Paul Hudson were also on the way. They reached C2 on 16 May and even though they were intending to summit from C2 they went up to C3 on 17 May as they were very tired.

The British team had left C3 five hours ahead of Zerain and Galvan, but they overtook them at about 3 am. The British team was fixing ropes. It was a very windy. Zerain and Galvan spent about one hour on the summit and descended to C2, where Zerain arrived at 6 pm. Galvan continued to BC where he arrived at 8:30 pm.

Rajib and Tashi Sherpa were also on the way to the summit. Zerain and Galvan overtook them at about 3 am at 7650m. When Zerain came down from the summit he saw Rajib and Tashi also descending, but they were still at the same point at 12 noon. Zerain does not think that Rajib was on the summit. When Zerain reached C3 at about 2 pm he prepared some food. He did not notice that Rajib had been so unwell. Zerain believes that Rajib must have descended a bit farther, but died at about 6600m. He was snowblind and had frostbite. When Zerain reached C2, he heard that the Indian had died. On 20 May Zerain descended to BC.

Oiarzabal reached C2 on 23 April. He felt very sick up there and descended to BC on 24 April. At BC he found out that he had a collapsed lung and his pulse was very fast. The doctor of the British expedition told him to abandon the expedition.