원정 개요

Approx 1/3 of the lower face snow had melted since our recce images of Dec 2015 revealing angled limestone and loose rock. Top 2/3 seemed as shown in the previous image, but with steep blue ice on the south faces and deep unconsolidated new snow on the NW slopes of the upper ridge. Long 16-day approach trek in serious terrain, weather good during that period, but strong winds and snow from 26th May until we left BC. Snow/ice from the storm made the initial lower slopes difficult.

Only Nepali staff reached the high point in a storm; others only to ABC.

Focus was on the climb, so stayed at BC waiting out the weather for as long as possible. This caused a lack of time for the 13-day walk out! Dynasty helicopter came for us under a private (no insurance) agreement.