원정 개요

BC at 5250m right side of Lhotse Shar Glacier near East Face of Island Peak
C1 at 5200m at 200m above col 5700m north of Island Peak
C2 at 6250m on ridge south of SE Face (same ridge as C2)=ridge on S Face
C3 at 6800m on S Face (middle of S Face in ice on same ridge)
C4 at 7400m on SE Face (never occupied)
High point at 7400m on SE Face.

SE Face very easy: no problem climbing it (which reached at 7300m from S Face, which is very hard). S Face difficulty very step ice halfway up and above that rock - very steep 3000m. Fixed rope from below C1 to 7300m on entire SE Face; total 2800m fixed rope because very steep but snow stuck total. C4 site reached by several parties making route and placing loads 28th and on 30th Oct. Lopez and Sanchez went to C4 to sleep there and go for summit. Lopez only 10m below C4 when he fell. Planned to make biv or C5 at 8000m and summit 1st or 2nd Nov.

Lopez and Dr were at 7400m when Lopez fell entire face (2400m) on 30 Oct 5:00 pm. Doctor went to search and then had to biv in dark and cold, returned to BC next day with badly frostbitten 9 fingers. Lopez body not found by all searchers. Sanchez to KTM by helicopter; if no infection may not lose parts of fingers. No other problems.