원정 개요

BC at glaciers' meeting
C1 at 1955 French route
C2 at Col.

Had 2 C2s: 1st one above col in hope to go to top from it; pitched it 10th Sept but could make no summit bid because heavy snowfall and when returned it had been totally destroyed. At time of high climb, 2 [Messner and Kammerlander] reached 8000m on 21 Sept, but too slow and turned back at 8000m and down to BC, passing De Marchi and Ducroz below col and they reached 8400m on French route, not summit itself [on 23 Sept].

Messner, Kammerlander and Mutschlechner started up on 24th Sept from BC to C1; 25th to col's C3; 26th left C3 when sun reached col and followed direct route of Ruedi and Wielicki to top before noon in good condition.

Kammerlander skied from about 7500m down to end of glacier at about 5800m.


Ministry of Tourism via M Acharya - 27 Sep 86

Messner summits Makalu 11:30 am 26th
Started from C3 6:00 am and back by 1:30 pm
Kammerlander and Mutschlechner with him
3 in BC today
Good health


Paoletti - 21 Sep 86

Messner and Kammerlander on at 8000m but turned back by deep snow and returning to BC (probably 22nd) and stay there 2-3 days and then try again.
Yesterday C3 7800m.
All are well.
Too deep snow - too dangerous said Messner.
Leaves BC about 30 Sept - 1 Oct after summit.
Gabriel wants to go to Lhotse.
BC not radio - no new magazines from him.


De Marchi - 8 May 88

De Marchi reached 8400m very near summit, then turned back because it was getting dark and difficult ridge above.