원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

BC northeast right underneath Ganesh IV at yak hut
C1 at moraine of branch Tarsgampa Glacier
C2 just below entrance ice fall to use NE Face
High point at NE Face.

Recced up NE Spur left of Japanese route but found it very dangerous from enormous avalanches, so moved to NE Face to left main NE Ridge. Recce 24th. Placed C1 for NE Face climb. Now only 2 climbers because Mothersele ill and never went beyond BC and Downs only litte way above BC (perhaps to 18,000 ft), found it hard going and gave up. From C2 climbed through icefall with water gushing from top if it while huge avalanching going on. 5th April descended to BC because of snow; full previous night. 7th up from BC to C2 and 8th up through "waterfall" but felt impossible to climb high without heavy aids and/or siege tactics. Had only 5 days food left for this push. Went down on 8th with hope of trying Japanese route (NE Spur) but poor weather and each got sick in turn. Donovan did try solo Japanese route on 17th but gave it up too after reached 19,000 ft when warm clouds obscured where he was going.

Ganesh II very avalanche prone and therefore very dangerous in warmer seasons - great bowl which means warmth and much snow melt - Japanese route probably is the safest route.

Downs - 23 April 1988

Abandoned just east route on 9th April - very technical by Donovan and Mathias.
Downs did recce to 18,000 ft on north side and others were to try this beginning 16th April. Leave BC 21st.
Downs left BC on 15th and leaves Nepal 28th.
Mothersele ill - chest infections which got before BC - in BC only 3 days and then left expeditions.
Donovan and Mathias should arrive KTM 27-28th.